Inspired paperself lashes face charts...

Inspired paperself lashes face charts...

 

 

 

 

 

 I have spoken about this image quite a few times in my blog as it has been one of my final idea designs. I really liked it so I included it in one of my final three. I loved the effect the feathers had structured along the eyebrows it almost transforms the face shape making her look quite animal like. After we experience the paperself workshop I was really intrigued in the way we could feature lashes and shapes on the face for our final assessment but we didn't have to necessarily add them to the eyes. This lead to a whole new outlook as my contemporary aspect for my final design could be something quite outrageous like the lashes on the eyebrows or the lips.

 

  Lloyd Simmonds, (2013), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://merelygifted.soup.io/tag/feathery [Accessed 27 November 13].

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 This is the second image I came across when trying to research different false eyelash effects and designs on the face. I loved the simplicity of the image which makes the lashes much more effective being the main feature of the picture. However I knew I had to make the image my own so I added a blue lip to the look plus blue lashes then highlighted the face with a light, soft pink. (Like Illamasqua Tremble featured in our kit.) I think both colours seen together creates a really strong look almost futuristic or snow queen like persona.

 

 

Unknown, (2013), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.kanald.ro/Arta-sau-exagerare-idei-pentru-machiaj-EXTREM-FOTO_15312.html [Accessed 27 November 13].

 



My three final face charts and what inspired me to create them...

My three final face charts...

My final design...

 

This face chart was my final design that I chose to be my final look. As I have mentioned below I chose this look quite quickly as the image below really caught my eye when I first came across it, I just knew I wanted to include a lot of outgoing colours on the face rather than going for the predictable, subtle Elizabethan interpretation.

This particular image inspired me a lot when it came to designing both the hair and make-up for my final exam. I really liked the alien/futuristic like essence to that the image has and I think the smokey eyes paired with the blending of colour has a strong and striking vibe to it.

 

 

Nathaniel Goldberg, (2011), “Braid New World” [ONLINE]. Available at: http://paintedinblack.wordpress.com/2011/08/23/braid-new-world-2/ [Accessed 27 November 13].


Second face chart...

This is my second face chart I created from my three final designs. This one was inspired from the image below. Again I didn't want to copy the image but I included elements of it like the dark lip paired with the pale face. I really liked the combination of the two. The also inspired me to include a flower head piece. However I was going to style the hair so it would be featured above the flowers rather than just worn down. My hair is naturally very straight and has no real volume or life to it. I considered crimping It to add texture to look but I think this would have looked to boring and easy so I aimed to either include padding and create a large structured featured at the top of the head or crimp the hair to create texture and height. I think this hairstyle would have made the makeup much more impactful.

During the process of creating the face chart I struggled to come up with two other options because I was so set upon the image I had originally chosen. I think I should have experimented more with both of these looks rather jumping to one conclusion because I think these could have been just as successful as my final design and they probably incorporate more Elizabethan references and techniques than my chosen image.

Kirsty Macdonald, (2013), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/536843218052128583/ [Accessed 27 November 13].


Third face chart... 

 

This particular face chart is one I produced when we were set the task to design two face charts inspired by the paperself lash workshop we did in Lara's seminar. The image I've included underneath was my main inspiration when constructing this look. I didn't want to make a replica of the image because I wanted the design to be my own creation. So I focused on the feathers as my main point, they were what caught my eye in the first place. I loved the fact that they had crowned the feathers along the eyebrows portraying a black swan type look. I thought that this would be a great contemporary element to include in my final design. I aimed to add onto the feathers so that they could be linked or attached to my hair design almost creating a headpiece that combined the two.

However my design would differ to my inspired one as I intended to include orange highlighter to brighten the face but this would be seen on top of a white foundation base, a common Elizabethan trend. I think the white and orange would have worked really well together because the white would be the traditional element and orange would give the white some added depth and warmth, making a more contemporary make-up version. I also wanted to add an obre blue lip lined with a dark blue then a light blue in the centre. The eyes were also going to be different as I aimed do a Smokey eye effect but only using different shades of blue to colour coordinate with the feathers. The feathers in my image are more blue and green rather than just a selection of dark and light blues like in the image. I thought this would compliment the orange and white base better.

 

 

 

 Lloyd Simmonds, (2013), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://merelygifted.soup.io/tag/feathery [Accessed 27 November 13].



Step by step application insturctions for the assessment...

Make-up application for final look...

• Prep the face using cleanser, toner and moisturiser. Prep the lips also for later lip application.
• Apply Kryolan foundation with Illamasqua Satin primer to the face as a base coat.
• Conceal under eyes and on additional spots using
  Kryolan Dermacolor Camouflage mini-palette -16.
• Powder the face using Illamasque Loose Powder.
• Apply Sleek Ultra mattes brights palette pink shade to the sides of the face and into the hairline blending outwards with Illamasqua, Tremble. Using a smaller brush then blending out with bigger brush.
• Contour cheeks with the same pink from the Sleek Ultra mattes brights palette. Using a brush similar size to the Illamasque blending brush.
• Blend this into foundation using Illamasqua, Tremble on the apples of the cheeks. Using Illamasqua highlighter brush.
• Apply Mac black pencil to the whole lid of the eye extending out to create a flick towards the ends of the eyebrows. Also line the bottom lash line with pencil. Blend out using soft sponge. 

• Cover the pencil with Kryolan, charcoal shadow. Blend strongly into the lid and bottom lash line covering the pencil outline. Using eye-shadow brush.
• Also darken under the beginning of the eyebrow towards the tear-duct using Charcoal colour.
  Using angled brush for sharp, clean result.
• Using Kongo and Cigar shades from the Kryolan palette blend the shade into the charcoal on the top and bottom of the eye. Also filling in the eyebrow. Blend with blending brush, fill in eyebrows with angled brush.
• Using both pinks from the Sleek Ultra mattes brights palette blend the eye alongside the black flick created. Fill in between the eyebrows and black lid with pink and on the bottom lash line under the black shading. The pink should be seen running from the bottom lash line reaching up to the pink on the forehead at the side of the head, in one straight direction. Blend pink into the eye using eye-shadow brush and the angled brush for smaller areas. Use highlighter brush for bigger surfaces.
• Then using Illamasqua, Disobey blusher powder the cheeks above the pink contour line blending it into the cheek. Add more of the pink shade if the colour is faded or lost. Using highlighter brush.
• Lightly brush Benefit, Snow bunny lust duster 

• shimmering loose powder onto the side of the forehead where the lighter shade of pink is blended out. This is also added under the pink contoured line, the cupids bow of the lip and the middle of the bottom lip, the inner corner of the eyes, the top of the cheeks-above the apples and under the arch of the eyebrow. Use highlighter brush for bigger areas and blending brush for smaller areas.
• Then using a mascara wand stoke white side of Loreal Paris Double extension black mascara through the lashes, top and bottom repeatedly to create a thick layer. Then stroke the wand through again but using the Illamsqua white foundation so the lashes are bigger and thicker.
• Lastly line the lips with the Mac coffee pencil ensuring that the outer edges are included. Then dab small amount of the Maybelline 24 hour super stay 510 Red Passion gloss to the inner, centre of the top and bottom lip creating an obre effect. Finally dab the Sleek Ultra mattes brights palette pink powder over the red with a flat eye-shadow stick. Only dabbing to avoid cracking the lips.

Practicing my make-up final design...

 

Practicing my final make-up idea...

 

I was really inspired by the make-up seen on the model in one of my final hair design images when it came to producing this look. I loved the fact they had included a bright colour at the top of the cheek blended into the side of the head. I also thought it would look really interesting to include a quite outrageous contemporary element to my Elizabethan look. We told that we could include sub-cultures in our designs and I definitely think this look incorporates a syfy/Alien references within it.  The combination of dark smokey eyes and the pink shading can be associated with this genre. The shaping of the hair wrapping around the head with the heart shaped quiffs could also be associated to a 'bug like' creature which I really like because it  is still considered a traditional hairstyle for that particular era however the make-up really changes how its perceived.

 

At first I included a white eyebrow to match the white mascara seen on the eyes however I decided this looked like a block on the face rather than an Elizabethan reference so I just included contemporary dark brown eyebrows, a more natural look. 

 

 

 

 

The New Elizabethans...

The New Elizabethans...

 

Who will be remembered down the years for changing the way we live and think, for entertaining and amazing us?

 

Rihanna...

I can't remember when Rihanna and I first met, but I think it was near a dance floor and one of her tracks was playing. The thing I remember was her being a normal person, not what you'd expect of a young woman about to take over the world. She's one of the coolest, hottest, most talented, most liked, most listened to, most followed, most impressive artists at work today, but she does it in her own stride. She works hard, very hard. She gives to her fans, friends and foundation not just herself but her energy and spirit.
Rihanna, 24, goes out of her way to support the people she believes in. She is one of the few people I know in that world of fame and celebrity who aren't all about themselves. She'll give a real part of herself to an ordinary person she may meet, and that's rare.
This is the beginning for Rihanna — she has so much more to do and to give. She is just getting going, so watch out. She's the Barbados ambassador for youth and culture, and she's coming to a town near you.

Written by McCartney is a fashion designer.

http://content.time.com/time/specials/packages/completelist/0,29569,2111975,00.html

I found this paragraph on the 'The World's 100 Most Influencial people: 2012.'  I think it is a great example of why Rihanna should be considered as a New Elizabethan. We debated in class whether she deserved the title and after hearing the pro and con's I was definitely left sat on the fence.
I have always been a fan of Rihanna but I became even more so when she started to bring out her more edgier, personal music like 'Good Girl Gone Bad' and 'Rater R' and 'Loud'. I love the music she creates but what really stood out for me was her diverse range of looks used within each Album. She never fails to please her fans creating and releasing album's very quickly which formulates a lot of negative attention as critiques comment on whether she is producing good quality music. I always disagree with the reviews as every album she releases is attached with a whole new themed look and attitude. As a person I think Rihanna is very inspiring, a very different artist to Gaga as her costumes and style is much more realistic and down to earth making her a role model to a lot of younger girls.
Many people argue that she is a bad role model due to her personal life always being scrutinised and discussed in the media. Especially her relationship with Chris Brown. However I think its very difficult for celebrities to keep there private life 'private' as someone is always trying to get involved with it.
Rihanna is defiantly a celebrity that everyone is always looking out for or reading upon. She's a very influential person especially to her fans and general younger women. She's also created a successful River Island collection which proves that her opinion and personal style is definitely important within fashion.   

  

Unknown, (2010), Rihanna Performs at AMAs (VIDEO) [ONLINE]. Available at: http://blogstodiefor.com/2010/11/rihanna-performs-at-amas-video/ [Accessed 11 November 13].

http://www.vogue.co.uk/, (2011), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.idolator.com/6031932/rihanna-uk-vogue [Accessed 11 November 13].


Princess Diana a new age royal...

Princess Diana didn't follow in the old fashioned footsteps of the royals. She had empathy and compassion for other people and put herself in other people shoes- mine sweeping. She was also dedicated to a lot of charities and reached out to people in many different ways making her more relatable to the general public and a huge role model. After becoming a mum she didn't hire a nanny to look after her children like any of the other royals making her much more realistic and human. She was also recognised for her modern style and beauty and was one of the worlds most photographed women. Diana had a massive impact on the nation and is still remembered today for her beautiful personality and the tragedy of her death.

http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/princess-diana/images/21947319/title/beautiful-photo, (1981), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://images4.fanpop.com/image/photos/21900000/so-beautiful-princess-diana-21947319-710-644.jpg [Accessed 11 November 13].



Lady Gaga...

Lady Gaga is more or less known worldwide because of her shocking make-up and hair choices. Her quirky style and outrageous songs and performances are not just catered to one type of fan, her songs in particular are loved by homosexuals as Gaga always tries to express that being different and a little bit weird is good. Gaga herself is a pretty difficult choice to defend as a New Elizabethan as most people would consider her theatrical costumes to be pornographic and unnecessary rather than original or entertaining. A lot of Gaga's clothing isn't always necessarily 100% unique but she reinvents a lot of old trends making them her own. The creativity seen in her general look inspires a lot of her fans or just people in general because if she can be brave enough to wear it as often as she does then why can't we do the same?

I definitely think she has made an massive impact on the way we dress from day to day. She really broke boundaries and helped people become comfortable in there own skin. I think people dress a lot more outrageously nowadays without the concern of being judged or laughed at. I also think she's influenced a lot of other music artists to, singers such as Rihanna and Miley Cyrus have been in the public eye a lot more recently due to shocking performing outfits or seductive video's. Gaga has definitely raised the innovative bar, shaping the music industry as we are always intrigued to see what the next shocking outfit, song, hairstyle or make-up look will be.

Unknown, (2012), Unknown [ONLINE]. Available at: http://www.top10artis.com/2013/07/10-foto-hot-lady-gaga.html [Accessed 11 November 13].

 

 

Traditional Elizabethan styled look...

Traditional Elizabethan styled look...

 

 

This look is an classic, traditional Elizabethan look, a white face base with white lashes and brows alongside light pinks cheeks a light pink lip.

 

Note form -

• Shake base.
• Add primer-matte.
• Avoid clown look.
• A lot of buffing.
• powder when dried.
• Use foundation and buffing brush.
• Use consultation form.

 

 

Step by step...

 

• Mix primer and white foundation together. (The primer helps thin the thick white foundation.)
• Start at the centre of the nose work outwards. Make sure you apply well to forehead, ears, back of ears, back of neck. (These areas are easily missed but always visible on camera so make sure they're covered)
• Then apply base white foundation to eyebrows using a mascaras wand. I found this was the easiest way to ensure the eyebrows would appear white. Go against the hair first so all the hair appear white.
• Eyelashes- Apply to root brushing downwards then reapply to build up thickness and colour.
• Powder heavily with cotton wool pad slowly dabbing the face. Add an excessive amount to eyes, ears, neck and lip.
• Pat light pink colour blushes onto cheeks in a circular formation rather than colouring the whole cheek as only the cheeks would be coloured. Also dab a little onto the lips. (originally the Elizabethans would stain there lips with crushes berries.)

 

 

 

 

 

• The Elizabethans used lead to achieve this white base look, the use of this harsh chemical on there face normally lead to lead poisoning.
• Only peasants would be seen to have dark skin due to working outside in the sun.
• Ladies of high class would always be seen to wearing white pigmented make-up.

When creating my own modern Elizabethan look I should consider colour, shape and texture when referencing Elizabethan elements. These 3 things will give a definite Elizabethan essence to my created image. .

 



Eyelash application and colouring...

Eyelash application and colouring...

Colouring the lashes-

• Mix mac mixing medium with coloured pigment.
• Use flat brush so that you are able to colour the whole root.
• Massage into the root of lash like when applying mascara.

False lash application-

• Apply with eyes open, looking down enabling an accurate application.
• Add glue to back of hand then apply to lash gently using the bottom of the tube.
• Leave glue for 30 seconds then stick directly to the root of the lashes.

Before the application of the paper lashes...

 



 

 

 

 

After application of Paperself lashes...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Equipment used;

Sleek Brights palette

Duo eyelash glue

paperself lashes

Mac basic red pencil

Kryolan foundation palette

Illamasqua Satin Primer

 

 

Professional shots...

 

 

 

 

 

 



Eye's and lip's...

Eyes...

 

• Prep the eye first by applying a normal base application to the face including primer on the eye lid to help the makeup stay on the eye for a longer period of time.
• Also powder the face as we are using powder eye shadows on the eyes, no oils. Always add a lot of powder under the eye to prevent the falling of excess makeup. This also makes it easier to remove without removing the makeup underneath.
• Aim to use three colours on the eyes, a light, medium and dark shade.
• Brush the light shade over the brow bone and the lid of the eye using a small eye shadow brush.(Scrape the powder into the mirror of the palette for easier and quicker application.)
• Then add the medium shade to the lid of the eye, either all over, or just on the far edges to help breakdown the darker shade that will be later applied. This can also be applied with a similar brush.
• The darker shade can them be sparingly added the crease seen at the socket of the eye. This has to be applied in small light amounts as to much can be to heavy and obviously seen. The darker shade looks better if applied with a smaller more angled or flat brush so that you can apply right into the socket of the eye, enabling a stronger more defined result.
• Always use a cotton bud to smudge or remove any accidental excess shadow.
• Lastly add mascara to the eye using a wand (avoid double dipping.) Ask the model to look down and stroke the wand downwards through the lashes to help reach the root before applying the stroke upwards.
• Brushing through the eyebrows with an eye gel or just brushing them all in the same direction can really strengthen the end look. A colour shade matching the models hair can also be brushed through the brows to make them more visible and prominent.

Lips...

 

The three C's :

1. Control
2. Colour
3. Curve

Prepping the lower part of the face:

• First add Botanics (Available in boots) to an exfoliating pad )available at the Body shop)
• Rub this across the lip to remove any unwanted skin/make-up.
• Remove with water then dry the lip and apply lip balm.
• Then using the puff to lean and guide your models face, tilt the head backwards for an easier more accurate application. This also enables you to apply a straighter line to the lips.
• Take the lip liner just above the lips, small brush strokes for accurate line.
• When applying it to the cupids bow have your models face facing straight forwards.
• Tilt your models head or turn there head so it facing side wards when lining the bottom lip. Apply it with your pencil flat on its side so you are able to create a clean, straight stroke.
• Lip liner acts a good base primer for any lipstick so always apply first.
• Now apply the lipstick to the lips, this can be a similar shade to the liner or a couple of shades lighter or darker.
• Use an angled flat brush to help your application.

 

Your should always exfoliate and moisturise the lip before applying any products this will enable a strong clean finish.

 

 

 

Lip application:

 

• Outline the edges of the lips with dots of the shade you have chosen to use, apply with small lip brush. Also outline the cupids bow at the top of the lip to enable a more striking finish. Highlighters can also be added above the cupids bow to make the lips look bigger.
• After the outline is done dab the lips with the brush colouring the whole lip.
• Blot the lips with tissue.
• Powder gently over the lips using a cotton wool pad.
• Then re-apply the colour resulting with a stronger, brighter shade.
• Repeat the process to get a brighter result.

Creating Matte lips:

• Place a tissue between lips and blot after lipstick application.
• Hold a tissue up against the lips and dust throughout using a brush and loose powder.
• Gloss on cupids bow and centre of the bottom lip to enhance the overall look.
• Repeat this process and reapply the lipstick for a strong colour result.

Creating Obre lips:

• Line the outside of the lips a shade 1-2 shades darker than the your colour you aim to apply to the centre.
• Then massage a lighter shade to the centre of the lips. You can also use a wet eyeshadow.
• Can also apply a white base before applying the colour this will make the colour stand out better/pop.
• Use angled flat blush to help the application.
• Finish by highlighting the cupids bow and the centre of the bottom lip.

Colour blocking:

• Colour blocking is when the top lip is a different colour to the bottom lip.